These hidden/floating shelf brackets are mounted directly to wall studs behind drywall. Our Heavy Duty Hidden Shelf Brackets are designed to support a shelf, countertop, bar top, bench, or cabinet. Only thing I did different was Rods into Wall Studs first, then Shelf over Rods, so there was no chance of Rods going further into Shelves than necessary.Heavy Duty Floating Shelf Bracket – Hidden Stud Mount Shelf Bracket I agree with the Bar idea, did that for a Friend around 1986 using plain 12mm Rod, and the Shelves are still there today. Let cure for about a week before loading. Having marked studs and shelf, Drill holes and squirt in a bit of the love juice, Sikaflex, belt bars into shelf with hammer until fully housed, belt shelf mounted bars into studs, bend up or down if necessary until perfectly level, clean up excess sika from wall/shelf. 12mm def bar needs about a 13 +mm hole in timber IIRC. Just have to make sure the holes are drilled straight/level. A similar method for floating shelves 250mm - 300mm max is get some 12mm / 16mm deformed reinforcing bar, cut to length allowing to drill about 10mm shy of the depth of the studs and at least 100mm into shelf. Yep that's another good way of doing a bit lighter, narrower shelves. Ivan Yep that's another good way of doing a bit lighter, narrower shelves. Was thinking something along the lines of
Im sure there is something around just a matter of finding them ,lol. the holes arnt big enough to use a big screw. Ty chaos, yeah i saw them bunnings, but not H/Duty enough. Or you could use figure 8's recessed into the top of wall cleat or bracket pre fixed then screwed up into top. Then could use sikaflex on top of brackets to stick onto underside of benchtop.
#Hidden bar top brackets driver#
You could screw up through the bottom of the wall cleat into the bottom of benchtop = Alright if you have pre drilled cleats straight first then use an offset driver to get the screws in straight. Biscuit join=not really suitable but can be done. Ideally you'll get a good fixing in the cnr stud + 1 more for the end wall cleat.įor the connection of benchtop to brackets you could dowel= Alright if you have the little marking bushes. Also wallmates or similar in plaster in conjunction with glue are ok for light to medium duty but anything in plaster is no guarantee. Can glue (liquid nails/sika) to plaster as well for places that can't be nailed. I'd also run a wall cleat of the same material or stain up something, sized around 42 x 19 or similar, along wall between these brackets, fixed to studs. The top screw is obviously hidden, the bottom visible only upon kneeling down. Don't do screws up too tight as it'll split the end grain. Ensure you drill a clearance hole starting as far from the end (30 odd mm)as the screw (75mm) will allow, Also countersink so head will be below surface. I'd also skew a good 12g x 75mm + screw in through the top and even bottom of the bracket. Might get lucky? Hidden fixings are always slow and steady jobs I find. Attach to studs only so chances are one of them won't be right at the end of the benchtop. Find biggest gauge screw available with a head that's not to big for brackets. That's a good idea, rebate them into the back of shelf bracket even if keen. You'd probably need to look at the strengths of them etc, but I've used something similar before, but not for anything as heavy as yours.
You could possibly use something like these attached to the back of your brackets, with decent wall plugs and screws in the wall:
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